All the Money in the World|Bracciano — The Lake Country That Played Calabria

Paul Getty III was held in the mountains of Calabria for five months in 1973. Scott shot most of that captivity forty kilometres north of Rome, in the woods and abandoned farm buildings around Lake Bracciano, and staged an escape sequence through the medieval streets of the town itself. In one shot the Castello Orsini-Odescalchi rises behind the roofline — a fifteenth-century pentagonal fortress with five round towers, built by the Orsini and sold to the Odescalchi in 1696.

The substitution works because the volcanic country here is genuinely rough. Bracciano sits on the rim of a crater lake eight kilometres across, and the oak and chestnut above the town closes over the road within minutes of leaving the piazza. Empty stone farmhouses are still scattered through it. Point a camera anywhere and you have somewhere a boy could be kept and nobody would come.

The castle is open to visitors and run as a museum by the Odescalchi family, with armour, frescoed halls and a walkway around the ramparts that gives you the whole lake. The old town below it is four or five streets deep, with the kind of bar where the coffee costs a euro and the barman knows everyone by name.

Walk the rampart circuit and look north-west. Trevignano and Anguillara sit on the far shore, and on a clear morning the water is the colour of slate.